Some people go to the Straits of Mackinac in Michigan for romance, some go for history and some go for the fudge. None of them are disappointed. Mackinac Island, whose romance was so beautifully captured in the movie “Somewhere in Time,” continues to conjure images of a quieter era before the rush of today. Forts, mills, lighthouses and ships tell the history of native tribes, French, British and American immigrants who settled in and fought for this area. And after all that exploration, for those visitors with a sweet tooth, fudge shops abound.

Many native tribes lived in the region known as Michilimackinac along the border of the United States and Canada. The name is now spelled Mackinaw or Mackinac, both pronounced with the ‘aw’ ending. The tribes traded and fought with the Europeans who came in the early 17th century seeking furs.

Fort St. Philippe de Michilimackinac was built by the French in 1716. It guarded the crucial trade route that connected Lake Michigan with Lake Huron through the Straits of Mackinac. The British took control of the fort in 1761 after taking Canada from the French. The British abandoned the fort in 1780 for the relative safety of Mackinac Island, but that story will be told a little later on.

The fort, now known as Colonial Michilimackinac is a living history museum. On entering the fort, I immediately climbed the old wooden stairs to the parapet along the wall. This gave me a lookout’s view of the fort. Peering out I imagined standing guard, watching the land for signs of danger from neighboring tribes and the lake for invaders from afar. Down below I watched the re-enactment of life in the 1800s.
Within the fort, costumed docents tell tales of harrowing exploits and commonplace life during frontier times. Homemakers welcome visitors to their homes to see candle making and cooking. Traders sell their wares. Redcoats march their new recruits and train them in the art of loading and firing a musket. The grounds also host modern archeologists unearthing artifacts within the fort. These university scientists welcome questions and the opportunity to share the story of their finds.

The dominant feature I saw from the top of the fort was the bridge “The Mighty Mac.” Inspired by the Brooklyn Bridge, the Mackinac Bridge opened in 1954 connecting the upper and lower Michigan peninsulas. Five miles in length, it is the longest suspension bridge in the western hemisphere and the third longest in the world. Thousands of walkers celebrate Labor Day with a walk across the bridge from St. Ignace to Mackinac City (buses are available for the return trip). At sunset, photographers line the shore capturing the sight of glistening spires mingling with the colorful rays. And if a HydroJet ferry passes casting its spray, you can hear the snap of shutters.

The lights on the bridge replaced the need for a lighthouse, but Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse still stands near the fort. Docents in 19th century costumes offer walking tours and escort intrepid visitors up 51 winding stairs and an 11-rung ladder to the top of the lighthouse. The climb is well worth the effort for another magnificent view of Mackinac Bridge and the surrounding area. Back down on the main floor of the lighthouse, exhibits tell the story of life and labor in the lighthouse. This is one of over two dozen lighthouses in the area.

Around the end of the peninsula on Lake Huron rests a decommissioned Coast Guard vessel. It is now known as the Icebreaker Mackinaw Maritime Museum. For more than 60 years this craft traversed the Great Lakes clearing ice jams and keeping shipping channels open, heeding the motto, “We move ships when no one else can.” A guided tour takes visitors throughout the ship exploring both the operation facilities and living quarters.

A few miles inland is the site of Historic Mill Creek Park. In 1972, amateur archeologists discovered the remains of Robert Campbell’s mill. They found objects dating back to its construction in the late 1700s. At the visitors center, a brief film shows the history of the mill. Outside, at the sawpit, we watched confident visitors attempt the exhausting process of sawing a log by hand. A docent stood atop a thick log on six-foot tall sawhorses and guided the saw as volunteers hauled the blade down attempting to cut a board.

Millwright Campbell knew a better way. He dammed the creek and used its force to power his saws. Changing from hand-sawn logs to mill power created a manifold increase in lumber capacity. Before the mill, the painful hand process produced about fourteen 20-foot logs per day; using the mill, 150 logs could be made.

In the restored mill house, costumed guides demonstrate its operation. While much of the area is not yet excavated, two homes and a workshop are open. In the park, naturalists present programs on the local flora and fauna. Several trails meander along the pond and through the woods.

As mentioned before, in 1780 the British left the mainland. They feared attack from revolutionaries in America and decided to leave Fort Michilimackinac for a safer position on Mackinac Island. Campbell and his mill were instrumental in the construction of the relocated fort. This required the hewing and milling of thousands of feet of lumber and Campbell’s mill was up for the job.

The British relinquished the new Ft. Mackinac in the 1790s, but they returned to attack it at the start of the War of 1812. Outnumbered, the American forces surrendered. The island returned to American control three years later, following the signing of the Treaty of Ghent that ended the war.

Whether soldier, settler or tourist, there is only one way to get to the island, by water. Three ferry companies provide multiple trips to the island. Have your camera ready, as photo ops start as you pass Round Lighthouse and improve throughout your trip.

Today Mackinac Island is no longer a military enclave. The British-built fort still stands sentinel atop the hill, its buildings and grounds welcoming visitors to the 18th century. Inside the 14 original buildings, exhibits and hands-on displays show the life and work of the times. Outside, the sounds of marches, rifle drills and hourly cannon blasts fill the air. The 1829 Post Hospital shows what medical treatment was like 200 years ago.

Below the fort, streets teem with visitors. But there’s something missing from this street scene: Automobiles. They are banned from the island. The lack of cars gives the town the feel of a 19th century village center bustling with shoppers, today’s shoppers hungry for souvenirs and the ubiquitous fudge.

The town has a rich heritage of architecture and interior design. In addition to visiting homes and museums, I found the public library with its collection of historic furnishings, its rich color and its desks waiting for a reader to settle down, worth a visit.

There are three ways to get away from the crowds: hooves, feet, and wheels. The hooves belong to the horses pulling carriages and taxis that are the main means of transportation on the 3.8 square mile island. For those who prefer to use their own feet, the island is crisscrossed with many scenic trails along the coast and through the woods. These trails also serve bicyclists who bring their own bicycles or rent their wheels in town.

Carriage rides provide fully narrated tours of the island. Divided into two segments with two different types of carriage, the slow-paced ride passes the main physical and cultural attractions of the island. It stops briefly at Arch Rock, a place sacred to native peoples. Additional sites include St. Ann’s Cemetery, a blacksmith shop, two museums and the fort. The grandest spot along the way is the 130-year-old Grand Hotel. Famous in its own right, it was featured in the movie “Somewhere in Time.”

Halfway along the ride, at Surrey Hills Museum, passengers exit the two-horse covered carriage and prepare to continue their journey in a three-horse open carriage. The museum has displays of historic carriages and a small snack stand. Next to the museum, the Wings of Mackinac is a conservatory resplendent with bright, showy butterflies. I was not alone in chuckling as they landed on heads, shoulders and outstretched arms. This colorful and delightful attraction is worth a little lingering. And it is possible to catch a carriage later on to continue your ride.

Returning to Mackinaw City, a stroll along Central Avenue offers ice cream and candy, movies, souvenir shopping, book browsing, and a nightly laser show. On Tuesday and Saturday evenings in July, the bandstand in Conkling Heritage Park resounds with “Music in Mackinaw.” The orchestra’s repertoire ranges from jazz to pop to classics. Bring your folding chairs and sit back for a pleasant evening of good music under the stars. And to top it all off, the event is free.

Motorhome travelers can enjoy campgrounds on the shores of Lake Huron. Located in wooded areas, the campgrounds are only minutes from major attractions as well as the ferry to Mackinac Island, and, of course, the fudge shops.

Anna Lee Braunstein is a freelance writer who lives with her photographer husband, Jerry, in Rocklin, California, when not traveling about in her Monaco Coach Corporation–built RV.