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Volcano Alley
Looking for the excitement of a volcanic area without all the messy lava? Then check out the (relatively) dormant wonders of a road loop that boasts a whole new angle on the earth’s crust. Words by Erinn Morgan Photography by Darren Croke |
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| Northeastern California used to be a much more exciting place, geologically speaking. Volcanic activity was abundant—Mount Shasta was erupting up to the late 1700s and the hotspots around Lassen Volcanic National Park were active through 1921. Today, these areas still bubble and boil and there is much to see in this unique landscape. RVers can start this journey in Redding, California and head 50 miles east via the scenic road to Lassen Volcanic, where all four types of volcanoes in the world are found in one National Park. The park boasts over 150 miles of hiking trails (including 17 on the Pacific Crest Trail) and a stunning scenic highway that provides close-up access to volcanic steam vents, boiling pools, mudpots, volcanic peaks, and painted dunes. Heading north on scenic Route 89, visitors can take a breather in the beautiful Burney Falls State Park, which features 910 acres of pristine forest and lake shoreline. The centerpiece is, of course, the 129-foot Burney Falls itself, which was considered the eighth wonder of the world by Teddy Roosevelt. About 75 miles northwest of Burney Falls (via scenic highway) sits the mighty (yet dormant) 14,162-foot Mount Shasta and its namesake town. This spot is a base camp for rock climbers, tourists, and the New Age groups who regard the mountain—which is the largest volcanic peak in the contiguous U.S.—as a source of cosmic energy. After a visit to this “energy vortex,” RVers can pop right on I-5 south 70 miles back down to Redding (a visit to Lake Shasta and its limestone caverns can be easily added). All in all, a pretty spectacular road trip with some amazing wonders served up by Mother Nature. A Simmering Spot At first glance, Lassen National Park appears incredibly peaceful, with its lush, green forests and pristine lakes. It is when you happen upon a steamy, billowing vent that its fiery past begins to surface. Mt. Lassen reared its volcanic head for the first time in 1914, when witnesses saw the peak erupt with lava and ashes from one to two feet deep extending out 200 feet surrounding the newly formed crater (which was 40 feet wide and 150 feet long). Additional eruptions in the ensuing year ranged from short puffs of smoke and ash to 30-minute episodes that threw rocks weighing up to 100 pounds hurling down the slopes. All this action increased the crater’s size to 700 feet long by 400 feet wide and 40 feet deep. In 1915, Lassen made its greatest show. In May of that year, a flood of water and mud measuring 18 feet deep in some spots poured down the east side of the mountain, ripping up trees and rocks in its path. On the following day, an incredible steam blast erupted, spewing cabin-sized hot boulders over its edge and steam vapors up 30,000 feet into the air. The Forest Service estimates that four to five million feet of forest was leveled by this episode. Since a volcano is considered active only if it has erupted at least one time within recorded history, Lassen peak was the only active volcano in the continental U.S. until Mount St. Helens awoke in 1980. It was actually the collision of continental plates many years ago that caused violent volcanic eruptions in the Lassen area, including the formation of Mt. Tehama, which later crumbled and ceased to exist due to erosion caused by hydrothermal areas and Ice Age glaciers. Still, the volcanic landscape survived in Tehama’s wake, including the turbulent activity at Mt. Lassen. The National Park was established here in 1916 because of the area’s significance as an active landscape. Visitors can check out the action first-hand by entering on the Main Park Road’s northwest entrance. Be advised that albeit beautiful, parts of this road are windy and exposed, so driving a tow vehicle through the park may be preferable for some. There is a museum in the park that features an extensive collection of artifacts and photographs by B.F. Loomis, the man who carefully documented Lassen Peak’s most recent (1914-15) eruption cycle. Many of the park campgrounds, including Crags, Butte Lake, and Manzanita Lake, allow RVs up to 45 feet in length. Manzanita Lake campground is located near the northwest entrance. Here, there are many facilities, including a camper store and boat launch. Activities abound, from steam vent viewing and hiking to interpretation/education programs (late June through August) and snowshoe programs (early January to mid-March). Check out http://www.nps.gov/lavo/index.htm or call (530) 595-4444 for more information. Falling Into Place Just about 75 miles around the loop is McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park (just six miles north of Hwy. 299 on Hwy. 89 near Burney), a great spot to cool off with a towering waterfall after a jaunt in the steamy Lassen National Park. The park is located within California’s Cascade Range and has an unusual landscape created by volcanic activity—the porous basalt actually retains snowmelt and rainwater, forming a huge underground reservoir. This then flows at a rate of 100 million gallons per day out through springs at and above the park’s crowning glory, the majestic Burney Falls. Thousands of tiny springs issue through the porous rock, giving the falls an enchanted, misty appearance. Once, on a visit to the falls, an impressed President Theodore Roosevelt declared them one of the wonders of the world. The Falls were named after pioneer settler Samuel Burney in the 1850s. He was the caretaker at a local farm, which had sparked anger due to the owner’s treatment of Native Americans. In the owner’s absence, a group of Indians came looking for revenge and the unfortunate Burney paid for it with his life. Over time, a number of local features came to be named after the luckless wanderer. The park’s name also reflects that of the McArthurs, pioneer settlers in the area whose descendents were responsible for saving the waterfall and nearby land from development. In 1917, the newly formed Pacific Gas & Electric began buying up water rights in the area. Alarmed that they may dam the Pit River and destroy Burney Falls to provide hydroelectric power, Frank and Scott McArthur bought the 160 acres surrounding the falls and gave it to the state as a gift in the 1920s. Before this, for several thousand years, many native groups lived here, some believing the falls to be a spiritual place. An abundance of large and small game, acorns, bulbs, and grasses also drew them here. There is much to do in the State Park, including fishing, hiking (five miles of trail plus the Pacific Crest Trail wind through evergreen forests), and camping. The park boasts 128 family sites and seven primitive sites. None have hookups, but there is an RV dump and water fill station in the park. There are also bathrooms with showers located throughout the park’s camping area. For those who come for the falls, a path leads to the viewing area and trails wind down, around, and even over the top of the falls (prepare to get a bit wet if this is your destination). There is also a visitor’s center and a large general store at the park for supplies, snack, and dinner fixings. For more information or to make reservations, call (800) 444-PARK or check out www.parks.ca.gov. An Energy Center Head about 70 miles around the bend again on Hwy. 89 to the splendors of Mount Shasta, located in an area where camping, fly-fishing, hiking, golfing, climbing, cycling, skiing, and shopping abound. The city of Mt. Shasta is settled at the foot of this towering 14,162-foot mountain, which is the second-highest volcano in the U.S. and a major peak in the Cascade Range. The beauty of this area is undeniable. In 1874, John Muir himself said, “When I first caught sight of Mount Shasta over the braided folds of the Sacramento Valley, my blood turned to wine, and I have not been weary since.” The mountain is a dramatic sight as it is physically unconnected to any other mountain and rises 10,000 feet above the surrounding area. Made up of four cones, Mt. Shasta was last active about 200 years ago. Today, it is delightfully snow-capped. The United States Geological Survey considers Shasta to be a dormant volcano, but they believe it will erupt again. While it is impossible to pinpoint the date of next eruption, many believe it likely will occur within the next several hundred years. The worst-case scenario for an eruption here would be something like what occurred in the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens. If this happens, it is predicted that ash could blow inland as far as eastern Nevada. As this is highly unlikely, visitors can relax in plain view of Shasta, taking part in the many recreational activities the area has to offer. Daredevils with solid climbing experience head towards the summit of this great mountain. An estimated 15,000 people attempt to climb Mt. Shasta each year (including beginners), a feat which can take one to two days. The terrain includes loose volcanic talus, rock and ice, snow, and glaciers. The best time of year to climb the mountain is June through October. The less adventurous can keep their feet—or tires—on solid ground with hiking and scenic drives in the nearby forest. The Everitt Memorial Highway provides year-round access to the slopes of Mt. Shasta. The highway begins in Mt. Shasta City and tops out at the Everitt Vista Point, where one can enjoy views of the Sacramento River Canyon and Mt. Lassen. Access the trails and backcountry of this area directly from this road. For an urban fix, head downtown for the local art galleries, fine dining, and microbrewery. There are an abundance of art and photo galleries here, from Wingbeat Gallery of wildlife gifts and art to the colorful landscape photography of Tim Corcoran. Dining options include Italian, French Mediterranean, California Cuisine, and quick bites at coffee/tea houses. Mt. Shasta Brewing Company serves up ales and lagers made with pure Mt. Shasta spring water. Or board the nostalgic Shasta Sunset Dinner Train, a three-hour train tour featuring fine dining on restored vintage rail cars meandering through the stunning scenery of the area. Check out www.shastasunset.com for more information. While Mt. Shasta has a very down-to-earth side, it also attracts many New Age and metaphysical enthusiasts who believe the mountain is a source of cosmic energy. As a result, this town is home to many crystal shops, natural health stores, and healing retreat centers. Have your aura read, get some life coaching, or pick up a crystal or two in the hopes of finding clarity and peace. Or simply check out the energy here in this unique town. When you are ready to head back down the road, simply point your vehicle south on Interstate 5 and head towards Redding. There are some fun spots to check out along the way if you have time—from boating and fishing at Lake Shasta to caving at Shasta. RV Parks • Lassen |
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